Compositing and Portrait Capstone: Creative Multiple Exposure Portrait

Creative Multiple Exposure Portrait Project:
Imagine being able to capture not only a subjects portrait, but also communicate a life experience or story, internal impulses, dreams or perhaps an alter-ego. In this project students will demonstrate mastery by creating a multiple exposure portrait that involves a storytelling element.

"The Driver" By Seth Wilson. "I have always loved the open road, since I was a child I traveled across the desert many times and that imagery has always been burned into my subconscious. Recently I took photos on a solo trip back to my home city for a memorial to honor a childhood friend. This image is a representation of the road always being on my mind."

Links for Reading: think about how you can use the multiple exposure method to tell your own story or share an experience visually, because that is part of the challenge for this project... read and review these links before proceeding.

• Echosight, a collaborative double exposure project: echosight
• Article, double exposure and journalism: The formidable impact of double exposure and journalism
• Daniella Zalcmans Project: Canada's Devastating Legacy of Residential Schools

Creative Multiple Exposure Assignment:
In this hands-on project, students will plan and create their own creative multiple exposure portraits. Students will develop their own narrative, develop imagery to represent it and use photography to capture those images and combine them into a finished work with Photoshop.

Students must create pencil sketches and concepts for approval before proceeding.

Follow the processes below to complete your own portrait:

Part 1: Pre-production
Before proceeding create a pencil sketch of your concept or write a brief description of your narrative (who, what, when, where, why) for approval before proceeding. Think of something you want to communicate about yourself or an experience you have had, or ideas, causes or hobbies that interest you...

Part 2: Portrait Production 
You may work in pairs or small teams to capture the portraits you will use for your compositions. You will need to research and get creative with your environment to capture a portrait that will edit/blend well with their other exposures. You must frame your portraits correctly and capture them with good lighting and a background with good contrast for editing. Backgrounds with excessive noise (leaves, wood grain, signs, etc) will be difficult to edit out, so look for clean white walls, green screen, etc. Use our studio for best results.

Part 3: Additional Exposures
You must capture at least 3 additional exposures to use for this project, this can be done on campus or off campus as homework (take many pictures so you have 2 good images to use). You should take original photos for this project. Capture images that will help communicate the narrative you established in Part 1.

Part 4: Lab Work
Edit your portrait and captured images into a creative multiple exposure image with Photoshop. Follow the steps listed below and watch the video for an understanding of the process. Research online tutorials for inspiration and additional tips and tricks. Focus on using imagery to communicate the narrative you established in your concept sketch or written description.

Aaron dreams of redlining v8's, the autobahn and finding the ultimate set of rims for his twin turbo 1 series. This multiple exposure portrait contains elements that speak to his inner desires.

Photoshop Process: 

Tutorials:

Using Masks for Double Exposure

Using multiple exposures in Photoshop

Open your portrait in Photoshop, make a duplicate of the portrait layer in the layer palette and turn off the visibility for the original (this is a backup layer in case you make a mistake and want to re-edit). Follow the steps below as a rough guide to create your own composition. Research online tutorials for additional tips, tricks and techniques: 

1. From the Select Menu choose Color Range. Use the Eyedropper tool to select the background area of your portrait. Then use the Eyedropper with the + symbol to add to the Selection area, use the - symbol option to remove areas. Continue until you have a clean Matte and click OK 
2. Use a Lasso Tool to fine tune your selection 
3. Click DELETE to remove the selected area 
4. Scale down your layer by using the quick key Command T (T for Transform). Hold the Shift Key while you scale your portrait layer down in order to keep the proportions correct 
5. Use the Eraser Tool with a soft and large brush to create the face effect on your portrait, hiding any edges
6. Create any color modifications with Adjustment layers above your portrait 
7. Import your other images 1 by 1 by clicking and dragging or using the import option from the file menu
8. Adjust your new layer and set the Blending Mode to something that looks good, for my example I used Screen. Try all the options to see what looks best for your images; the different light and dark and color values in different photos will create different results for everyone. Tip: Hold the Shift Key and click the + or - Keys to quickly jog through the Blending Modes for your selected Layer
9. Position your layers and scale if needed, use Command-T to quickly scale 
10. Adjust the Opacity for your layers in the Layer Palette if needed 
11. Continue editing until complete, refer to the additional online tutorial links in the next section for inspiration and other techniques 
12. Save your file and export as a JPG for sharing

Ask your instructor for a demonstration of this process for more help!

Have fun!

Student Work Examples: 

- Mr.W

Studio Portraiture and Lighting Patterns

 

Hello Students,

Having a studio environment and using studio lighting is one of the best way for a photographer to have total control over the lighting and background elements in their photos. Different lighting positions are used to enhance facial features, eyes, hair... and to create different moods, atmosphere and effects in the photo. We will cover some basic lighting set ups and then you will work in groups to create examples of the different lighting positions for portraiture.

When you begin to recognize lighting patterns you can experiment with placement, shadows and light effects.

Studio Lighting Patterns:

A lighting pattern pertains to how the light and shadows fall across the face. We all know that harsh outdoor lighting can be unflattering to our subjects, casting deep shadows under the lips, in the eye sockets and neck area. By using studio lights we can create pleasing light patterns with rich tonal value to accentuate our subjects facial contours. Different lighting set ups work better for women and men separately, and it is important to know the basics, once you have an understanding of basic light patterns you can begin to experiment and achieve the results you desire in each of your portraits.

1: Split Lighting

Split lighting is a simple, single light set up. It is called split lighting because it divides the face into light and dark areas. This setup tends to be rather dramatic in effect. To achieve this look the light is placed 90 degrees to the left or right of the subject. Any lighting pattern can be used on any facial position, but the light may need to be moved in relation to the subjects face for best results.

Term Definition - Catch light: Sometimes the subjects eyes may be too dark in a split lighting set up, so often a "catch light" is used in front of the subjects eyes to fill the reflections in their eyes and to avoid a "dead" look in their eyes. This catch light can be a big diffused umbrella light, not bright enough to affect the split light set up, but just enough to cause some reflection in the eyes, brightening up the subjects look over all.

2: Loop Lighting

Loop lighting is when lighting is positioned to create a shadow of the viewers nose falling across the face. To create this look the light position must be slightly higher than eye level and about 30-45 degrees from the camera. This positioning may need to change with each person, everyones face is different. Learn to read your subjects face, in loop lighting the shadow of the nose and the shadow of the cheek shouldn't touch. Adjust light as needed to achieve this. Loop lighting is a common method as it is usually flattering to the subject and is easy to achieve.

3: Rembrandt Lighting

So named because the same lighting is used in Rembrandt's paintings. This set up is identifiable because the shadow created by the nose and the cheek do touch, creating little triangle highlights under the subjects eyes. Proper Rembrandt lighting should also use a catch light on the shadow side of the face to keep the eyes from looking lifeless. This is a dramatic lighting set up that creates a deep mood. If your subject has high cheekbones this is a good method, if their nose is very short or shallow you may need to adjust your lighting to achieve the light triangle so endemic of this method. To create Rembrandt lighting the subject must turn slightly away from the light and the light must be above the top of the head. Not everyone's face is ideal for this method, so do what looks best and is most flattering.

4: Butterfly Lighting

This lighting setup is named because of the butterfly shaped shadow that is created under the subjects nose. In this setup the light is placed above and behind the camera. This setup is used for glamour lighting and to create shadows under the cheeks and chin. It can be flattering for older subjects as it tends to minimize the shadows in wrinkles, which would be more pronounced in side lighting. Sometimes in Butterfly lighting a reflector is placed under the subject, sometimes the subject will hold the reflector themselves. This pattern flatters subjects with thin faces and high cheekbones.

Studio Light Styles / Broad Lighting:

Broad lighting isn't a pattern itself but a style of pattern, any of the above patterns can be broad or short. Broad lighting refers to the subjects face being turned away from the camera so that the lighted area of the face is broader and the shadow areas are smaller or shorter. This type of lighting can make a persons face appear wider and may not be flattering, or it can be used to make a thinner persons face seem fuller.

Short Lighting:

Short lighting is the opposite of broad lighting, the subjects face is turned towards the light making the shadow area smaller, and often more flattering. It puts more of the face into shadow, adds depth to the image and tends to me more slimming and flattering.

Link: 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns

Studio Lighting Assignment:

Pair up with 3-4 others and sign up for some time in the studio. We only have one studio so we will need to share. When you use the studio be extremely careful when handling the lights to avoid broken bulbs and broken equipment. Take turns acting as models and create examples of the following light setups:

• Split lighting
• Loop lighting
• Rembrandt lighting
• Butterfly lighting
• Broad lighting (in any pattern)
• Short lighting (in any pattern)
• Experimental (choose a light position/pattern/technique and get creative with it)

This example shows all lighting patterns...  strive for definitive light patterns in your own work examples.

Post process or shoot your images as B&W images to demonstrate the proper lighting patterns, B&W can show tonal patterns and light/dark areas with more clarity than a color image. Post your 7 best results to your blog when complete.

Have fun!

- Mr.W

Student Examples:

The Brenizer Method, AKA: Bokehrama, AKA: Photo Stitch

Hello Students,

Your new assignment is to create an example of the Brenizer Process, also called Bokehrama. This hands on lesson will introduce and guide students in the process of creating a panoramic stitch to mimic a large format image. Popularized by Ryan Brenizer, it has become a popular method for portrait, auto and wedding photography. This process uses standard equipment to replicate the large format look, this is a great project for creating compelling and creative portraits that won't break the bank!

This image was created with over 40 different exposures and combined with Photomerge, cropped and processed for the final result. Photo credit: Seth Wilson, 2017

The "Brenizer Method" Seamless Photo Stitch:
The Brenizer Method is named after Ryan Brenizer, a wedding photographer who invented the method, uses it in his wedding photography and teaches it to others as well. The advantages to this method is it produces a very high resolution images, essentially mimics a lens that has an f-stop of 1 and produces great bokeh. The process to create a successful Bokehrama image is in 2 parts, capturing and processing. Read the detailed instructions below before attempting to create your own.

Camera Capture Process:

• Use a DSLR or similar camera with exposure control.
• Find an environment with elements that will show depth with detail along the fore, mid and backplane. This will show off the method best.
• Stand in one place and dial in your camera exposure, then lock it down, including white balance.
• Set your lens/aperture to it's widest setting for the shallowest depth of field
• Focus on your subject/center area, use autofocus to dial it in, then switch to manual. You don't want the camera to c
• oks good your ready for photoshop!
• hange focus between shots
• Frame your subject and take some test shots, make sure the light is good and the subject is framed tightly, if not move yourself forward or backward to frame your subject/area
• Take your photo framing your subject in the center.
• Move slightly to the right and take an overlapping shot, keeping the camera steady, continue shooting in a grid pattern to the left, top, bottom, bottom right, bottom left, etc. 
• Make sure each shot overlaps with the previous for blending.
• Up to 40 exposures can be used for a large image. More is better so you can crop the best area after combining.
• Review your shots and make sure each one overlaps and the exposures aren't changing between shots, if it looks good you are ready for Photoshop

Photo Stitching Process in Photoshop:

• Move all of your exposures from the camera and copy them to your computer and place them in a new project folder.
• Launch Photoshop and go File > Automate > Photomerge
• Click the Browse button and navigate to your folder of images, use Command-Shift to select all of your images at once and load them into Photomerge. Alternatively you could use Command-A for Select all.
• Click OK to start the process. Photomerge may take up to 30 minutes or longer depending on the size and number of photos you are combining. The processing speed of your computer also affects the speed of this process, allow appropriate time for the computer to complete it's work.
• If your Photomerge is successful, you will see your finished and combined image.
• Crop your photo, use the Crop Tool in the Toolbar. Hold Command while you click-drag with the Crop Tool to create a perfectly square crop.
• Save your image to your folder as a Photoshop file.
• Use your Photoshop skills to modify your image as desired for creative results and make it cool!

Tutorial 1: Brenizer Method Tutorial
Tutorial 2: 5 Steps to the Brenizer Method
Link: The Brenizer Method Page
Link: Brenizer Method used for pet portrait photography

This photo stitch of the Tilden Park Carousel facade was created with over 50 images and combined by hand in Adobe Photoshop. Photo credit: Seth Wilson, 2016

Have fun!

Student Examples:

  - Mr.W

HDR Pro Project

Hello Students,

Your new assignment is to shoot a set of bracketed exposure images and combine them with Photoshop's "Merge to HDR Pro" feature. HDR Pro is a powerful tone mapping program, and is the best way to merge multi-exposure images.

This image was created with 3 bracketed exposures, tone mapped with Photoshop and adjusted for best results

Project Requirements:

• You will produce 4 final images for this project.

• You must use a tripod to shoot a set of multiple exposure images. and then combine them with the Merge to HDR Pro feature in photoshop. Take 3 different exposures, underexposed, normal and overexposed. Team up since we only have a few tripods.
• Take more than 3 exposures if you like, but you will need to bracket your exposures manually

• Edit the sliders in the Merge to HDR Pro menu to achieve good tone in your image
• Produce 2 color and 2 B&W images with the HDR process, subject is your choice

• Upload your 4 final images as jpgs to your blog when complete.

Tips and Advice to get great results:

• Subject matter is your choice, but avoid any portraits or any subject that will move between taking each picture. 
• HDRI process works best with landscapes, cars, architecture and objects that have rich texture or very shiny surfaces, like cars, windows, glass, water reflections, etc...
• HDR Pro can align your images, but if there is too much movement between exposures than results can be less than desirable. Check the "Remove Ghosts" button for best results
• Use a tripod, it is mandatory for this project!
• If you want to use this for portraiture, make sure your subject can hold themselves extremely still between shots... otherwise there will be ghosting and blur in your image.

How To Merge with HDR Pro in Photoshop CS5:

AKA: Tone Mapping

• Take your 3 different exposures and place them in a new project folder
• Launch Photoshop and go File > Automate > Merge to HDR Pro
• Browse to your files and load all 3

• Merge to HDR Pro launches
• Input the Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO for each exposure

• Modify the sliders as outlined below to achieve your best look
• Check out the Presets at the top for your other 3 versions

Check out this video about using HDR Pro: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsaS5vgzlek

Setting Camera Up for Bracketing:

Menu > Camera  >Bracketing > AE Bracketing > Choose exposure

Click here to check out this link to see details on setting up AEB on the Rebel T3i

Merge to HDR Pro Slider Functions Explained:

Edge Glow:

Strength <--- Increase these numbers for more halo effect, decrease for less

Radius <--- Increase these numbers for more halo effect, decrease for less

Tone/ Detail

Detail <--- Sharpens your image and adds contrast, ADJUST THIS FIRST then adjust others.

Exposure <--- Increases or decreases brightness

Shadow <--- brighten or darken shadows

Highlights <--- brighten or darken highlights

Color:

Vibrance  <--- Adjusts muted colors first, then others

Saturation <--- removes or adds more color

Student Work Examples: